Last updated on April 8, 2021
Pear is a classic cutting style that has existed for centuries. Its elegant outline gives the engagement ring a feminine and unique appearance which is why it is preferred by many brides-to-be. However, not all of them know how to choose the best settings for pear-shaped diamonds. Let’s go into the details and find out how to buy a stunning piece of jewellery.
What Is a Pear-Shaped Diamond?
The pear cut, also referred to as the teardrop or pendeloque cut, is a classic cutting style created by Flemish diamond polisher Lodewyk van Berquem back in the early 1400s. In addition to designing the pear cut, van Berquem is responsible for the facets’ placement in the modern diamond cuts and symmetry in the diamond cutting process. Without him, diamonds would not be cut in a certain way to maximize the brilliance and sparkle.
Usually featuring 56 to 58 facets, the pear-shaped diamond combines the brilliance and design of both the round and the marquise cuts that result in a unique shape with a tapered point and rounded end. However, pear cut diamonds can vary in their exact appearance. Depending on the length to width ratio, they can look elongated or chubby. While personal preference prevails, the optimal ratio for pear-shaped diamonds is usually between 1.50 – 1.75.
Although today, pear-shaped diamonds are one of the most popular diamond cuts, they were not as much of a success when their creator first introduced them to the world. The pear cut was favoured by the public due to its beautiful shape, but many diamond cutters at the time were not happy with the amount of rough diamond lost during the cutting and polishing process.
Choosing Prong Setting for Pear-Shaped Diamonds
The prong setting is the most popular and classic setting type for pear-shaped diamonds and the other diamond cuts.
In the case of pear-shaped diamonds, jewellers usually use three, five or six prongs. Choosing the number of prongs depends on your personal preferences and priorities, but the more prongs the setting has, the safer it is as the stone is more protected.
The main advantage of the prong setting is that it leaves most of the stone visible to the observer, increasing its brilliance and fire. However, the prong setting is not the safest as prongs can bend or break when they are worn out. Another downside of the prong-setting is that it can snag clothes, especially if set high.
It is worth mentioning that the pointed end of the pear-shaped diamond needs some extra care. Some engagement ring designs feature a prong holding the sharp corner, while others leave it exposed. It all depends on your taste, but choosing a regular or V-prong, which is shaped in the form of the letter V, is the most secure option to protect the pointed end of the stone from damages and accidental hits.
Choosing Bezel Setting for Pear-Shaped Diamonds
The bezel setting is the second most popular choice for pear cut diamonds. It encircles the diamond with a thin metal frame that holds the stone tightly in place, making it the best solution for those looking for protection from accidental hits and chances to lose the stone.
Apart from the main advantage of the bezel setting, it does not bend and snag clothes or hair and offers a modern and sleek look which is perfect for minimalist engagement ring designs.
The downside of the bezel setting is that it covers a significant portion of the diamond and makes it look a bit smaller than the actual size of the stone. Moreover, depending on the structure, the bezel setting tends to keep more of the diamond hidden in the metal, which results in less light entering the stone and reducing the stone’s brilliance.