Princess cut and Asscher cut diamonds are often compared when people try to choose a square looking diamond. Although these two cuts have a similar outline they are different in terms of brilliance and the way their facets are shaped and aligned. Let’s go into details and find out how these two cuts are different.
What is a Princess Cut Diamond?
The princess cut is one of the most popular fancy diamond cuts for engagement rings. It traditionally has a square shape with sharp pointed ends. There are also slightly rectangular variations of this cut, which command a lower price.
What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?
The Asscher cut is the square variation of the emerald cut. The difference is that the Asscher cut has larger step facets, smaller table and higher crown which allow producing more brilliance than the emerald cut.
Similar to the princess cut, the Asscher cut has a square outline but with cropped corners. Asscher cut diamonds often come in slightly rectangular shapes, which cost less than the traditional stones with a length to width ratio of 1.00.
The Asscher cut belongs to the “step cut” group which is designed to highlight the clarity of a stone.
What is the Difference Between Princess and Asscher Cut Diamonds?
Although the princess and the Asscher cuts have a similar outline, they are totally different in the way they produce brilliance and sparkles and other important characteristics.
Cut, Brilliance and Sparkle
Princess and Asscher cut diamonds are different in terms of how their facets are shaped and arranged.
The Asscher cut diamonds feature facets parallel to the girdle and each other to highlight the clarity of the stone. While the princess cut diamonds’ facets are designed to maximize the brilliance and sparkle.
As a result, princess cut diamonds exhibit more fire and brilliance compared with Asscher cut diamonds.
It is worth mentioning that you should pay special attention to the depth of the stone when selecting a diamond. This characteristic affects how well the diamond will reflect the light. A well-cut princess diamond should have depth in 64 – 75% range, while for Asscher cut the recommended depth range is 60 – 70%.
Since princess cut diamonds exhibit more brilliance and sparkle, they tend to mask yellowish tints in a stone. In case you want to save some money, you can opt for a princess cut diamond in G-H-I colour range as the stones in this category will still look relatively white.
With Asscher cut diamonds it’s a bit different. Since this cut was initially designed to highlight the clarity of the stone, any colour present in such diamonds will be more visible. That is why it’s recommended not to go lower than H colour with diamonds of this cut.
As mentioned above Asscher cut diamonds’ facets are arranged to highlight the clarity of the stone. If you choose an Asscher cut diamond you should not go lower than VS1 – VS2 clarity range, otherwise the inclusions will be easily seen with the naked eye.
In case you opt for a princess cut diamond, you have more leeway. The brilliance of this cut tends to mask the impurities. With princess cut diamonds you can go as low as SI1 clarity and still have an eye-clean diamond.