Asscher diamonds were first produced by Royal Asscher diamond company in 1902. The cut peaked in popularity during the Art Deco period in the 1920s. Asscher cut diamonds were extremely rare and could be found only in antique jewellery shops. Around 2002, a hundred years later after the first wave of popularity, the shape began to make a comeback. Nowadays, it is a modified cut that gives the shape much more brilliance than traditional Asscher cut diamonds.
Asscher Diamond Cut Guide
The modern Asscher cut is similar to a square emerald cut, but with larger step facets, higher crown and smaller table. This combination allows producing more brilliance than the emerald cut. Like the emerald cut, Asscher cut has cropped corners. However, as Asscher is a square cut, the cropped corners give the stone an octagonal shape.
The classic Asscher diamonds are square with length to width ratio of 1.00. However, they often come in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Keep in mind that any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye.
The table below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut grade of an Asscher cut diamond.
|TABLE %||61 - 69||57 - 60 or 70 - 72||54 - 56 or 73 - 74||51 - 53 or 75 - 79||< 51 or > 79|
|DEPTH %||61 - 67||59 - 60.9 or 67.1 - 70||57 - 58.9 or 70.1 - 74||54 - 56.9 or 74.1 - 79||< 54 or > 79|
|GIRDLE||Very Thin to Slightly Thick||Very Thin to Slightly Thick||Very Thin to Thick||Very Thin to Very Thick||Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick|
|CULET||None||Very Small||Small||Medium||> Medium|
Asscher Diamond Colour Guide
In general, body colour is easier to see in larger Asscher diamonds, especially over 1.50 carats, because of large, open facets.
The colour chart below provides a general guideline for evaluating colour in an Asscher cut diamond.
|< .50 ct.||D - G||H - I||J - K||L - M||> M|
|.51-1.0 ct.||D - F||G||H - I||J - K||> K|
|1.0-2.0 ct.||D - F||D - F||G||H - I||> I|
|> 2.0 ct.||D - F||D - F||G||H - I||> I|
Asscher Diamond Clarity Guide
As a rule, inclusions are easier to see in Asscher cut diamonds. For example, while SI1 clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance for other diamond shapes, in Asscher diamonds the perfect choice will be VS2.
The chart below provides general information for evaluating clarity in an Asscher diamond.
|< .50 ct.||FL - VS2||SI1||SI2||I1||> I1|
|.51-1.0 ct.||FL - VS1||VS2||SI1||SI2||> SI2|
|1.0-2.0 ct.||FL - VVS2||VS1 - VS2||SI1||SI2||> SI2|
|> 2.0 ct.||FL - VVS2||VS1||VS2||SI1||> SI1|
Cover image credit: Jewels by Grace