A hundred years later after the first wave of popularity, Asscher is one of the most desirable diamond cuts for minimalist jewellery pieces. If you are interested in buying a diamond with a clean and sleek design, our Asscher cut diamond guide is a must-read.
History of Asscher Cut Diamonds
The name of the Asscher cut originates from I.J. Asscher Diamond Company established by Joseph Isaac Asscher in Holland 1854.
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Isaac Asscher, the grandson of the founder. This was the world’s first patented diamond cut protected from replication. The Asscher Diamond Company held its exclusive patent until World War II and saw extremely strong sales internationally, especially during the Art Deco period. The peak in popularity in the 1920s is one of the reasons people see Asscher cut diamonds as “antique” and “vintage”.
Although the Asscher cut looks similar to the square emerald cut, Joseph Asscher modified certain criteria so Asscher cut diamonds produce more brilliance. These criteria include larger step facets, a smaller table and a higher crown, which result in signature look and more weight than other cuts.
The original Asscher cut diamond features 58 step-cut facets and an octagonal square shape with an ideal length to width ratio from 1 to 1.04.
After declining in popularity in the latter part of the 20th century, in 1999, Asscher cut was perfected by Edward and Joop Asscher and presented to the world as the Royal Asscher cut.
Preserving signature look and brilliance, The Royal Asscher cut was created using modern cutting techniques and features 74 ideally symmetrical step-cut facets. Not to mention, the Royal Asscher cut is patented by Royal Asscher Company.
Asscher Cut Diamond Cut Quality Guide
While the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) provides cut grading for some cuts, such as the round brilliant, it doesn’t provide cut grading for Asscher cut diamonds. However, it grades polish and symmetry. These are some of the key features to be considered to have a brilliant and sparkly stone.
Since there is no industry-wide consent on what cut parameters make an ideal Asscher cut diamond, we recommend using the table below as a general guideline for evaluating the cut quality of Asscher cut diamonds.
| EXCELLENT | VERY GOOD | GOOD | FAIR | POOR | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TABLE % | 61 - 69 | 57 - 60 or 70 - 72 | 54 - 56 or 73 - 74 | 51 - 53 or 75 - 79 | < 51 or > 79 |
| DEPTH % | 61 - 67 | 59 - 60.9 or 67.1 - 70 | 57 - 58.9 or 70.1 - 74 | 54 - 56.9 or 74.1 - 79 | < 54 or > 79 |
| GIRDLE | Very Thin to Slightly Thick | Very Thin to Slightly Thick | Very Thin to Thick | Very Thin to Very Thick | Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick |
| CULET | None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium |
Asscher Cut Diamond Colour Guide
Colour of Asscher cut diamonds is graded on a scale from D to Z, where D signifies a completely colourless stone and Z means an easily noticeable yellow or brown tint.
Due to open step facets and a large table, Asscher cut diamonds retain more colour than other diamond shapes, meaning it’s easy to see the natural colour of the stone. This is especially true for diamonds weighing 1.50 carats and over.
To have a fairly white stone, it is recommended to opt for a diamond in at least the near-colourless range; however, in many cases, it might be worth to choose a diamond in D-E-F range.
The colour chart below provides a general guideline for evaluating colour in Asscher cut diamonds.
| SIZE | EXCELLENT | VERY GOOD | GOOD | FAIR | POOR |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | D - G | H - I | J - K | L - M | > M |
| .51-1.0 ct. | D - F | G | H - I | J - K | > K |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
| > 2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
Asscher Cut Diamond Clarity Guide
The GIA grades clarity of Asscher cut diamonds on a scale from FL to I3, where FL means a flawless stone and I3 indicates a heavily included diamond.
Since Asscher cut diamonds feature step-cut facets, they are not as fiery as brilliant-cut stones. Asscher cut diamonds are designed to accentuate a diamond’s clarity, meaning inclusions are easier to see in them, especially if the flaws are found in the middle of the stone.
For example, while SI1 clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance for other diamond shapes, in Asscher diamonds the perfect choice will be VS2 and above.
The chart below provides general information for evaluating clarity in Asscher cut diamonds.
| SIZE | EXCELLENT | VERY GOOD | GOOD | FAIR | POOR |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | FL - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | I1 | > I1 |
| .51-1.0 ct. | FL - VS1 | VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
| > 2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 | VS2 | SI1 | > SI1 |
