Princess diamonds, first created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, are the most popular fancy diamond shape in the world, especially for engagement rings. Princess cut diamonds are favoured for their flexibility in working and sophisticated appearance.
Princess Diamond Cut Guide
The princess is traditionally a square cut (four sides of equal length). However, there are princess cut diamonds that are slightly rectangular and more rectangular a princess cut diamond, the lower the price.
To save some money, you may opt for a slightly rectangular princess diamonds as any length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. If the princess will be set with side diamonds, the 1.05-1.08 ratio may still look square.
All of the square cuts, princess cut along with the radiant cut, comes the closest to achieving the fire and brilliance of a round diamond, making it an ideal combination of unique shape and sparkling appearance.
The chart below will help you in evaluating the cut of princess diamonds. As a general rule, avoid princess cut diamonds with a table % greater than the depth %.
|TABLE %||67 - 72||59 - 66 or 73 - 75||56 - 58 or 76 - 82||53 - 55 or 83 - 85||< 53 or > 85|
|DEPTH %||64 - 75||64 - 75||58 - 63.9 or 75.1 - 80||56 - 57.9 or 80.1 - 84||< 56 or > 84|
|GIRDLE||Very Thin to Slightly Thick||Very Thin to Slightly Thick||Very Thin to Thick||Very Thin to Very Thick||Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick|
|CULET||None||Very Small||Small||Medium||> Medium|
|LENGTH TO WIDTH RATIO||1.00 - 1.03||1.00 - 1.03||1.04 - 1.05||1.06 - 1.08||> 1.08|
Princess Diamond Colour Guide
Like most diamonds, smaller princess diamonds hide colour better while larger ones will show colour easier. If you just want colourless appearance you may opt for G, H or even J colour depending on the size. However, those who prefer actual white diamonds need to choose stones in D-F colour range.
The colour chart below provides a general guideline for evaluating colour in princess cut diamonds based on carat weight.
|< .50 ct.||D - G||H - I||J - K||L - M||> M|
|.51-1.0 ct.||D - F||G||H - I||J - K||> K|
|1.0-2.0 ct.||D - F||D - F||G - H||I - J||> J|
|> 2.0 ct.||D - F||D - F||G||H - I||> I|
Princess Diamond Clarity Guide
As a general rule, it’s harder to see imperfections on smaller princess cut diamonds than larger ones. That’s why you may purchase a lower clarity grade stone if it’s small enough to maintain an eye-clean appearance. Besides, as princess diamonds have a lot of sparkle and brilliance, they hide blemishes fairly well.
The clarity chart below provides general guidelines for picking a clarity grade for your princess cut diamond.
|< .50 ct.||FL - VS2||SI1 - SI2||I1||I2||> I2|
|.51-1.0 ct.||FL - VS1||VS2 - SI1||SI2||I1 - I2||> I2|
|1.0-2.0 ct.||FL - VVS2||VS1 - VS2||SI1 - SI2||I1||> I1|
|> 2.0 ct.||FL - VVS2||VS1 - VS2||SI1||SI2||> SI2|